Thanksgiving went well this year. Nothing was burned. Nobody got the flu, or a flat tire, or had to trudge six miles through the snow for an emergency pack of disposable diapers. It was leisurely and well-planned, for once, and hopefully for always. We went simple with the tofurky feast. It comes with cake now. And a wishbone and gravy and a postcard, which I'm sending you right now.
When Desmond and I broke the wishbone and he won, he announced that he had wished for the whole cake. Fortunately at four he doesn't understand the intricacies of wishes yet - too young to understand that if you say it aloud it doesn't come true. Later, he did eat most of it. And I'm pretty sure he polished off the rest for breakfast dessert the next day. Holidays have special rules. The boys' Uncle Denny declared that the cake tasted like paint, but the rest of us were pleasantly surprised with the quality of the defrosted chocolate loaf - it was moist, with a mild chocolate flavor. You could totally pass it off as homemade.
The tofurky made a reliable centerpiece, as well as sandwiches the next day, and as always, the rich brown vegan gravy was coveted by the dwindling number of turkey eaters in the party.
Everything was delicious, from the sweet potato casserole to the classic jellied cranberry sauce, to the mashed potatoes, to the sourdough stuffing, but what stood out was the one dish that I had gambled on this year - the mushroom and brussels sprouts casserole. It's the traditional green bean affair down to the crunchy onions on top, but with nary a canned vegetable or cream of anything in sight. It was comforting and delicious and not at all disgusting in that way that so many traditional Thanksgiving dishes are - shockingly loved out of some sense of nostalgia or commitment. Every component here tasted good on its own terms, silky and lush, slightly bitter and then sweet, hearty and warm and creamy and then crisp, even if it did sort of nudge you in the ribs and whisper, "Hey remember that other dish? The one with the canned green beans and mushroom soup. That's totally gross. Call me gratin."
Mushroom and Brussels Sprouts Gratin
- 1 stalk of brussels sprouts (or about 1 1/2 pounds loose sprouts)
- 8 ounces cremini mushrooms, quartered
- 1 large shallot, minced
- 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus a tiny bit extra for roasting the sprouts
- 3 tablespoons non-dairy butter
- 1/2 cup flour
- 1 1/2 cups broth
- 1 1/2 cups soy milk
- salt
- pepper
- pinch of nutmeg
- 1/3 - 1/2 can fried onions (This pop-top doesn't count as a canned vegetable; it's a whole unimpeachable class of food. Do it. Oh, and the leftovers are great on top of veggie burgers slathered in barbecue sauce.)
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Trim brussels sprouts, toss with a small swirl of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt and spread out on a cookie sheet. Bake for 15 - 20 minutes until browned.
In the meantime, heat the oil and butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, toss in the hot oil, and let cook until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the shallot and a pinch of salt. Turn the heat down to medium-low and stir. Cook, stirring occasionally for about 2 - 3 minutes, until the shallot is transparent, the whole pot is incredibly fragrant, and the mushrooms have given off their liquid. Add the flour to the pan. Stir and cook for about a minute until the flour has become a slightly toasty paste. Slowly stir in the broth and milk. Add a pinch of nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Stir and cook until the sauce is smooth and heated through and has thickened to the consistency of a cream soup. This will just take a minute or two. You don't need to bring it to a boil.
Add the roasted brussels sprouts to the mushroom sauce. Pour the whole thing into a three quart casserole pan. Top with fried onion pieces. Return to oven and bake until bubbling, another 15 - 20 minutes.
